WEBVTT

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On the walls
where the cabinets

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are to be installed, mark
the cabinet layout end

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points
with short vertical lines

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at eye level.

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Using a level, extend
each layout end point line

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up the wall and mark
a short vertical line

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that extends both a couple
of inches above and below

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the height where you
want the top

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of your cabinets to be
located.

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Within the cabinet layout
space, find the high spot

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in the floor
along the wall

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and mark the wall at this
location.

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Then check the floor
along a line located two

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feet out from the wall.

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If the high spot location
changes,

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then use your level
to transfer the new high

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spot over to the wall
and mark the wall

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at the new location.

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At the marked high spot
just located, measure

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up the wall
and make a short

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horizontal mark
13-16th of an inch

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above the height where you
want the top

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of your cabinets to be
located.

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This horizontal line
marks the easy hang wall

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rail mounting hole height.

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Using your level,
extend this line

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over to where it
intersects the closest one

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of the two cabinet layout
endpoints.

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Along the horizontal line
just made, locate the wall

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stud
closest

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to the same cabinet layout
end point and mark

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this stud center line.

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Measure and cut the EZ
Hang Wall Rail 2 inches

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shorter than the cabinet
layout length.

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If you need to install an
additional extension

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of rail
that is less than two feet

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long to make up
the total length of rail

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needed,
it is recommended to trim

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the longer rail
so that the added section

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is at least two feet long.

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Set the easy hang rail
on the wall

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within the cabinet layout
space so that the rail

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mounting holes
are centered

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over the mounting hole
line.

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It would be
helpful to install a nail

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or screw near the center
of the layout space

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to serve as a temporary
rail support.

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Adjust the rail
so that the end that you

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are holding is located
about one inch

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from the layout end point.

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Then,
install a black oxide

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10x2 inch washer head
screw through the wall

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rail hole into the wall
stud whose center line

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was just located.

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Tighten the screw
so that the rail

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is snug but is
able to pivot freely.

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Remove the nail or screw
installed

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as a temporary support
from the center

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of the layout space.

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Place a level
along the top of the wall

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rail and adjust the rail
until it is level.

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Draw a line
along the bottom edge

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of the rail and then
let the wall rail pivot

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downward to a resting
point while locating

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the centers of the rest
of the wall

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studs along this line.

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With the stud centers
located, re-align the wall

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rail bottom edge
to the level

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horizontal line just made
and install another

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black oxide 10x2 inch
washer head screw

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in a stud near the center
of the rail

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and another screw
in a stud near the end

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not yet attached,
again making

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the screws snug
but not tight.

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If the layout includes an
extension,

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butt the additional rail
against the end

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of the rail
already installed.

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Holding a level
along the top

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of the installed rail
and the additional rail,

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draw a line
along the bottom

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of the extension,
and find the location

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of the studs along this
line as you did

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for the main rail.

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Before installing the rest
of the 10 by 2

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inch washerhead screws,
check the distance

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from the wall rail
ends to the closest wall

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stud at each end.

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If the end of the wall
rail extends more than 8

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inches beyond the closest
wall stud line,

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then mark the wall
by tracing

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around the inside
of the second to last hole

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of the wall rail
at the affected end

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of each wall rail section.

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Remove all of the rail
fasteners

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except for the first one
and, again,

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let the wall rail pivot
to a resting point

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while you
install a snap toggle

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at the marked locations.

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Snap toggle installation
instructions are provided

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separately.

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If the end of a wall rail
extends 8 inches

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or less beyond the closest
wall stud,

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then finish attaching
the wall rail

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and extension
using the black oxide

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10 by 2 inch
washer head screws

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at each stud location,
making the screws

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only snug for now.

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Before fully tightening
the wall rail at each stud

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location, the Easy Hang
wall rail needs to be

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checked for straightness
along its length.

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A great advantage of using
the Easy Hang system

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is its ability
to compensate for waviness

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in a wall
by providing

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a straight and level
hanging surface.

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This is especially
critical when hanging

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frameless cabinets.

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Taking extra care in this
step will further

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simplify the alignment
of any type of cabinet.

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Adjusting for low spots
in the wall surface.

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Sight along the top
of the wall rail from end

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to end,
noting where there

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are low spots
in the attachment points

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along the rail.

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Loosen the rail attachment
screws in these

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lower areas
and insert the provided

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plastic horseshoe style
shims between the rail

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and the wall
at the stud locations

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as needed to align the top
of the rail

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in a straight manner.

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After shims have been
added,

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the rail mounting screws
should be tightened

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securely.

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Recheck the wall rail
for straightness

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and levelness.

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Adjusting for high spots
in the wall.

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This is not done now,
but rather is accomplished

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when mounting the cabinet
brackets.

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You simply note where
on the wall the high spot

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is located in the cabinet
arrangement,

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identify the affected
cabinet

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and then
adjust the location

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of the affected bracket
as needed away

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from the high spot.

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If there is an
extreme high spot,

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it may be
necessary to modify

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the wall at the high spot,
or separate the wall rail

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into two sections
that stop short

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of the high spot
to enable the wall rail

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to run straight.

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Most cabinet manufacturers
recommend that their

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cabinets be fastened
through at a point

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away
from the inside vertical

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corners
just

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below the top interior
surface of a cabinet

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and similarly at a point
just

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above the bottom interior
surface of a cabinet,

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which typically
corresponds with

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the center of the factory
installed hanging

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reinforcement strips.

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These locations
allow for a large surface

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area of strength
at the top and bottom

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of a cabinet for holding
purposes,

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and reduce the chance
of compromising

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the structural integrity
of the cabinet.

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By design, the easy hang
cabinet bracket slot

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limits fastener placement
to accommodate this

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factory hanging strip.

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Take one of the cabinets
that is part of a given

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wall layout,
open the door,

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and position a cabinet
bracket on the front

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of the cabinet
with the alignment leg

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resting on top as shown.

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Set a t nut
against the cabinet

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interior top-finished
surface

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alongside the bracket.

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Note the location
closest to the top

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of the cabinet bracket
that

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allows for installation
of the T-nut,

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and mark the bracket
at this point.

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Now take the bracket
that you just marked

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and position
it horizontally

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on the rear of a wall
cabinet with the alignment

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leg resting on the side
of the cabinet.

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Set the bracket about an
inch down from the top

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of the cabinet
and use the far edge

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of the bracket as a guide
to draw a vertical line

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on the back
of the cabinet.

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Repeat at the other end
of the cabinet.

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Now position
the same bracket

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vertically
with the alignment leg

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resting on the top
of the cabinet

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and transfer the T-nut
center mark

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onto the vertical line.

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Drill a 5-16th hole
through the cabinet

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from the back.

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Repeat
for the other cabinets.

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If you have a corner
cabinet that attaches

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to adjacent walls,
install the brackets

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as shown at the locations
marked A in the diagram.

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Open the cabinet door
and press a T-nut

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into each
of the drilled holes

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from the inside
of the cabinet.

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Set a mounting bracket
on top of the back

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of the cabinet
with the alignment leg

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flush against the cabinet
top.

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Insert the provided 1
fourth inch by 20 machine

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screw through the cabinet
bracket

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and through the hole
in the back of the cabinet

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until it
engages the T-nut.

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With the cabinet
mounting bracket alignment

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leg
resting flat against

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the cabinet top,
tighten the screw

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so that the T-nut barbs
engage the face

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of the cabinet
interior rear surface.

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Repeat
for the other cabinets.

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If you plan to use
the decorative plastic

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t-nut covers,
you can install them

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at this point.

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On cabinets over 30 inches
wide, it is recommended

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to install additional,
equally spaced brackets

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so that there is no
more than 24 inches

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between brackets on an
individual cabinet.

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If you are also installing
base cabinets,

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it would be
advantageous to extend

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your wall stud locations
down the wall

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and mark your wall
around the 36-inch height

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off the floor.

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Set a cabinet
next to the wall

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near its predetermined
location.

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If you have a corner
cabinet that attaches

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to adjacent walls, it
should be installed first.

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Raise the cabinet
to about chest height,

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and then lean it
against the wall

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allowing the brackets
to contact the wall.

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With the bottom
of the cabinet

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held slightly away
from the wall,

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slide the cabinet
up the wall.

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The cabinet will move
slightly away

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from the wall,
then will quickly

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move toward the wall,
at which point

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you can stop the upward
motion,

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allowing the brackets
to engage the wall rail.

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Make sure that the cabinet
brackets have engaged

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the wall rail
before releasing

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the cabinet.

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The location of the corner
cabinet brackets

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at A will allow for
the alignment

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of the adjacent cabinets
on the walls in either

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direction.

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Once the corner cabinet
is in place,

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you can check
the clearance

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between the cabinet
and rail

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throughout the corner.

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If the walls are square,
you can add one

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or the other bracket
at location B.

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But if the walls
are out of square,

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you will need to rely on
the brackets

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at A and the bottom
attachment screws.

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Note,
framed style cabinets

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can be adjusted to work
on out of square corners,

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but frameless cabinets
are less forgiving.

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00:12:35.660 --> 00:12:38.930
Easy Hang can compensate
for out of square walls,

263
00:12:39.300 --> 00:12:41.610
but if they are too far
out, then

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00:12:41.610 --> 00:12:44.080
additional alignment work
will be needed.

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00:12:45.100 --> 00:12:46.810
With a corner cabinet
in place,

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00:12:47.100 --> 00:12:49.040
now mount the rest
of the cabinets.

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00:12:50.250 --> 00:12:53.570
Once all of the cabinets
are in place, they can be

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00:12:53.570 --> 00:12:56.470
secured to one another,
either through the wooden

269
00:12:56.470 --> 00:12:59.400
face tiles or just
behind them

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00:12:59.640 --> 00:13:02.260
through the cabinet
sidewalls in accordance

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00:13:02.410 --> 00:13:04.240
with the cabinet
manufacturer's

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00:13:04.240 --> 00:13:07.430
recommendation
regarding adjacent cabinet

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00:13:07.430 --> 00:13:08.930
attachment.

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00:13:13.510 --> 00:13:16.480
Make sure that the stud
location centers are again

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00:13:16.480 --> 00:13:18.800
utilized for this
bottom fastener

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00:13:18.800 --> 00:13:20.300
attachment.

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00:13:20.340 --> 00:13:22.640
Place a level
on the front vertical face

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00:13:22.640 --> 00:13:24.810
of the cabinets
to determine how

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00:13:24.810 --> 00:13:27.420
much the cabinets
need to be shimmed away

280
00:13:27.420 --> 00:13:29.080
from the wall
at the bottom

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00:13:29.460 --> 00:13:31.450
to set the cabinet
front's plumb.

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00:13:32.400 --> 00:13:35.690
Drill three 16 inch holes
through the cabinet

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00:13:35.870 --> 00:13:38.210
just
above the bottom interior

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00:13:38.210 --> 00:13:41.420
surface of the cabinet
in alignment with the wall

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00:13:41.420 --> 00:13:42.650
studs.

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00:13:42.650 --> 00:13:44.040
Again,
using

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00:13:44.040 --> 00:13:47.070
the provided horseshoe
style shims for spacing,

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00:13:47.510 --> 00:13:51.530
install 10 x 2.5 inch
washer head screws

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00:13:51.840 --> 00:13:54.070
through the cabinet's
lower sections.

290
00:13:55.550 --> 00:13:57.880
Add your scribe
and crown moldings

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00:13:57.880 --> 00:14:00.310
as desired
to complete the project.